San Miguel de Allende, Mexico (cont’d)

Since we visited San Miguel de Allende over New Years (and lost almost 2 days after our ferry disaster in Belize – we mentioned this to one of our servers and the grimace he made when he heard ‘Belize’ was hilarious), most of our remaining time was spent on various festivities (and a nice spa visit!). However, we did wander through a couple additional areas I wanted to catalog, mostly on the periphery of town outside the “Centro” area.

Since our day trip to Dolores Hidalgo was only a few hours long, we opted to walk to the Fabrica la Aurora, which is a lovely building that’s since been transformed into a multi-gallery art venue, complete with a sculpture garden and several restaurants. Along the ~20 minute walk to the northern part of town, we took in the beautiful sights, including an amusingly decorated house.

A colorful and whimsical house in San Miguel de Allende adorned with various decorative items, including plants, animal sculptures, and vibrant murals, with a green door and ornate balconies.

Then, we passed San Miguel de Allende’s murals, which are as diverse in color and style as they are in theme.

A vibrant mural depicting a woman with long hair and a stylized face, flanked by colorful birds, set against a purple background with greenery above.
Colorful mural featuring a stylized portrait of a woman with vibrant hair and abstract designs, alongside another figure, set against a textured wall.
Mosaic mural featuring a portrait of a man with the name 'Cossio del Pomar' inscribed below, set against a white background with angular black patterns.
Colorful mural by artist Irving Cano featuring three female faces adorned with traditional attire and accessories.
A colorful mural featuring a stylized bird perched on a branch, surrounded by vibrant green leaves, red berries, and butterflies. The background is a dark color that enhances the vividness of the artwork.
A mural depicting a woman's face with vibrant features and a floral border, located on a brick wall in San Miguel de Allende.
Vibrant mural depicting a pot of colorful flowers against a blue background, located on a wall next to a parked white car.
A colorful mural depicting a man with a feathered headdress, holding a hand with rings while a snake wraps around him and a bird perches above.
A colorful mural depicting a scene of conflict featuring armed soldiers and masked individuals holding tools, surrounded by tropical plants.
A vibrant mural depicting a scene with armed soldiers and women in traditional attire, featuring the phrase 'Viva Palestina Libre.' The artwork combines various colors and artistic styles to convey a powerful social message.
A colorful mural depicting various cacti and desert plants on a red wall, with a blue sky and white clouds in the background.

The Fabrica la Aurora wasn’t as exciting to us as we expected (the galleries are nice, but they seemed more geared towards folks looking to purchase home goods / wall art than exhibitions), so we opted to stop for a quick bite to eat (of course).

Sculptures of two abstract bulls facing each other in a public square with a sign for the Centro de Arte y Diseño in the background, surrounded by trees and clear blue sky.
A large red sculpture of a woman holding an umbrella stands prominently in a park, while a small blue car drives past on a gravel road lined with trees.
A large, abstract sculpture of a human face made from bronze, situated among trees and a small landscaped area with cacti in a parking lot.

We tried Los Conspiradores Restaurante Bar, where we had the Yecapixtla Cecina (thin cured beef typical of the city Yecapixtla, to the south of Mexico City), served with mole and the Sopa Tarasca (basically what a Tex-Mex restaurant would call Tortilla Soup, but with a bean-base vs. chicken broth base). We also tried the mezcalita (a margarita made with mezcal) and I tried Crema de Ojo Tigre, which is the “cream” version of one of my favorite tequilas. It tasted like eggnog, but without the overly sugary, heavy flavors (I feel like it’d be great in an ice cream!).

A plate of Yecapixtla Cecina, a thin cured beef dish, served with mole, rice, and guacamole, alongside a decorative basket with floral designs.
A colorful bowl of Sopa Tarasca garnished with cream and herbs, alongside a decorative basket and a glass of mezcalita on a wooden table.
A hand holding a glass of creamy beverage with ice, set against a wooden table and a background featuring a poinsettia plant and simple wooden furniture.

After that, we celebrated New Year’s Eve at our hotel, the Amatte. They did a fantastic job, with a multi-course plated dinner and a live band (who sounded like they were speaking Sim-lish when singing the English verse lyrics, but had dynamite instrumentals!). We also got to enjoy a few Mexican cultural experiences, such as the “12 Grapes at Midnight” tradition (no one actually ate them all) and the very strong drinks (the family of 10 or so at the table next to us shared 3 bottles of tequila between them!). Overall, it was a really fun experience.

For our final day in San Miguel de Allende, I spent much of the day in a blissful spa treatment (highly recommend the Laja Spa at the Casa de Sierra Nevada hotel by Belmond), but we still found time to wander a bit. We decided to check out the southern and western sides of town, which is a bit more refined and residential.

As we made our way down the hill from our hotel, we accidentally stumbled upon the Casa de la Cultura de San Miguel de Allende and the Lavaderos del Chorro, which were traditional, communal washing basins used by the indigenous population to wash clothes. The Casa de la Cultura apparently hosts a variety of events and art exhibits, but it was closed for New Year’s Day.

Exterior view of a colorful historic building with a clock tower, featuring arches and balconies, set against a clear blue sky.
A rustic adobe building in San Miguel de Allende, adorned with vibrant pink bougainvillea and featuring traditional stone benches in front. A lamppost is visible on the left, enhancing the charming street scene.

We then passed the meticulously pruned and spacious Parque Benito Juárez.

View of a colorful entrance gate with decorative stonework, leading to a pathway surrounded by trees, in San Miguel de Allende.
A circular stone pathway surrounded by neatly trimmed bushes and trees in a green park, featuring a central statue and benches.

On our way into town, we also passed Calle Aldama, which is the “scenic” road (aka influencer central). It’s certainly nice, but I don’t know if the view would have been worth it if it were more busy.

A quaint street in San Miguel de Allende decorated with star-shaped ornaments, featuring colorful buildings on either side and a church with a distinctive spire in the background.

I did appreciate that the town was dressed up, with lots of festive statues.

Two oversized decorative figures stand outside a shop, one dressed as Santa Claus and the other as a bride, surrounded by greenery and festive decor.

We really wanted to see if we could find a restaurant that offered Cafe de Olla in San Miguel de Allende, but unfortunately everything seemed closed. We popped into a local churraría, but were super unimpressed with the churros, the chocolate, and the service (it seems that the ‘chocolate’ part of churros y chocolate in San Miguel de Allende is basically just hot chocolate, more suitable for drinking than dipping).

A picturesque view of the iconic cathedral in San Miguel de Allende, showcasing its unique architectural details and vibrant colors against a clear blue sky.
A plate of churros dusted with sugar, served with a mug of hot chocolate in a colorful cup.

However, after a nausea-inducing ride on the cobblestones up and down hills (and dodging trees in the road), the day took a turn for the significantly better when we arrived at Birria Xalisco Jardín San Miguel, which specializes in quesabirria (basically the most delicious meat-filled quesadilla served with a dipping broth, onions, cilantro, and salsa). What could be better for a New Year’s Day, post-tequila hangover!

Interior of a vibrant restaurant with colorful tablecloths, patrons dining, and traditional decorations hanging from the ceiling.

We tried:

  • Quesabirria made with flour and corn tortillas (corn was preferred)
  • Taquitos dorados ahogados (basically ‘drowned’ taquitos, some filled with potato and some with beans); I was somewhat disappointed by the ‘taquito’ part (I really couldn’t discern any filling within the fried tortillas), but the pickled cabbage and onions were tangy and crunchy and the broth had a really nice oregano-forward flavor
  • We also tried the jericalla, a flan-type dessert that tasted like it was made from sweetened condensed milk
  • Of course, we finally got our Cafe de Olla and a fresh lemonade, both of which were refreshing and sweet
A colorful table setting featuring traditional Mexican bowls filled with green cilantro, chopped onions, lime wedges, and a red sauce, placed on a vibrant, patterned tile table.
A colorful plate of tacos topped with shredded cabbage, pink pickled onions, and salsa, accompanied by a clear drink with lime, on a vibrant patterned tablecloth.
A dish of flan served in a clear glass bowl on a colorful, patterned tile table.
Two plates of quesabirria served with dipping broth and toppings on a colorful tiled table.

For dinner, we opted to visit the Rosewood Hotel, which is set in a Spanish colonial mansion and has an amazing view of the downtown skyline.

An image of a beautifully designed red wall with a stone structure and tall cypress trees in San Miguel de Allende, with a sunset sky in the background.
Large white numbers forming '2026' displayed in a grassy area with palm trees and colorful buildings in the background.
A beautifully decorated courtyard featuring a Christmas tree adorned with gold and green ornaments, surrounded by vibrant red flowers and palm trees.
Panoramic view of San Miguel de Allende showcasing colorful rooftops, palm trees, and prominent historic architecture against a sunset sky.

Dinner was at the Pirules Garden Kitchen, which is set in a (as you’d expect) a well maintained garden. They only offered a multi-course tasting menu for New Year’s Day, so we opted to do it despite not quite being hungry enough. It was a nice tasting menu that featured a variety of local and more broadly Mexican specialities, including:

  • Fresh made bread
  • A salad with a variety of citrus fruits, a tostada with beans, and a tostada with chorizo (the chorizo was really nice)
  • Seafood pasta with some type of miso-based cream sauce (a favorite for both of us)
  • Fresh vegetables in a dark mole (I loved these – I’ve been craving vegetables)
  • Delicious roasted pork (fall apart tender)
  • Sea bass over mashed potatoes
  • Macarons served in a ‘treasure box’ (the treasure was the check, amusingly)
  • Delicious cocktails – I tried their version of the carajillo (it was a bit more coffee-forward and nicely spiced), as well as some creative margaritas
Table setting featuring a menu and gourmet dishes with a drink, surrounded by decorative elements including flowers and a patterned table.
A beautifully plated salad featuring fresh greens, nuts, and colorful garnishes, served alongside small tacos and a glass of red wine on a green and white tiled table.
A close-up of two tacos on a decorative plate, topped with chopped onions, cilantro, and sliced radishes, with a wedge of lime on the side.
A bowl of pasta topped with grated cheese and herbs, set on a vibrant green patterned tile surface.
A beautifully presented multi-course dish featuring colorful vegetables, including baby carrots and corn, alongside a protein dish garnished with fresh herbs, set on an ornate table with a patterned surface.
A cocktail served in a textured glass, featuring ice and garnished with a slice of lemon and green leaves, placed on a cork coaster against a dark background.
A decorative wooden box containing pebbles, small pink desserts, and a sprig of greenery, placed on a green and white tiled surface.

Overall, San Miguel de Allende was excellent and I definitely think it lives up to the hype. A few parting thoughts:

  • I’d probably stay closer to downtown next time, but the Amatte had great food and amenities despite being a smaller boutique hotel (I’d recommend either the Belmond or the Rosewood if budgets allow)
  • Definitely get out of the city center for food – the local restaurants are great, dirt cheap, and Ubers are plentiful
  • Definitely do the day trip to Dolores Hidalgo and Atotonilco
  • I wish we’d had the chance to visit Guanajuato city as nearly everyone we met said we should (we had a tour booked, but sadly had to cancel given our travel delays); most everyone recommended actually staying overnight given the drive time and amount to do (silver mines, tunnels, street food, and even temazcal experiences)
  • San Miguel de Allende has a burgeoning wine scene; consider booking a winery visit – similarly, if you’re interested in the local Casa Dragones tequila, I’d book tickets well in advance
  • I’d highly recommend hiring a driver to / from the airport (there’s apparently one in Queretaro, but we flew in and out of Mexico City); not only is the driving style different in Mexico, but the highway to / from Mexico City is a main trade route up to the United States and PACKED with cargo trucks, much more so than any other trucking route I’ve ever experienced. For fun on our drive back to Mexico City, I counted how many trucks we saw using a counting app and the grand total for ~250 miles and ~3 hours of drive time was 1,147 cargo trucks (and those were only the semis, not counting regular trucks or construction vehicles!)

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