Kona, Big Island, Hawaii

For Labor Day long weekend, we opted to visit the Big Island in Hawaii, one of the islands we’ve wanted to explore for quite a while (and three days was barely enough to scratch the surface – I think you could easily spend 2+ weeks as a tourist and never run out of ‘touristy’ things to do). The Big Island (official name: Hawaii) is known for its rugged and laid back vibe, incredible natural landscapes (including volcanoes, waterfalls, lava fields, spectacular beaches, rainforests and 13 distinct climates!) and horticulture, including pineapples, tropical fruits, coffee, vanilla, and more. The island also has unique cultural history, including ancient Polynesian and early Hawaiian sites and a more modern Paniolo culture (Hawaiian cowboys who farm longhorn cattle). Since we explored quite a bit between enjoying the pool and beach at the hotel, I’ve combined everything into one blog (and labeled it as Kona, although we explored the entire western side of the island south of Waimea). One of my best friends is Hawaiian and had a ton of great recommendations, 99% of which we sadly weren’t able to do (in part due to closures from Labor Day weekend and the multiple hurricanes currently over the islands), so I’ve captured a few additional items we want to do on our next trip at the end!

Scenic view of a tropical landscape with palm trees, lush greenery, and a coastline along the ocean under a clear blue sky.

We flew directly from San Francisco to the Kailua-Kona airport, which only took about five hours despite feeling like thirteen. I don’t think I’ve ever been on a flight with so many small children at once – we counted 18 babies / kids that visually looked under five years old while waiting in line for the bathrooms / stretching (and the kids in front of us and next to us were largely unsupervised the whole flight – think climbing over seats, dropping toys, crawling / walking in the aisle and holding on to my armrest and thigh for stability). Also imagine: every single one of these kids needing a diaper change at 30,000 feet. It was a long flight.

Thankfully, our Hawaiian relaxation began immediately after deplaning when we arrived to pick up our rental car and were pointed to a single row of vehicles and told to choose our favorite and drive away – beats standing in line and getting upsold on insurance! We then sped (just kidding, the speed limit never got over 55 anywhere we drove on the island) toward Kona for lunch.

By way of quick orientation, there are two major cities on the island: Kona (to the west) and Hilo (to the east), with about 2.5 hours of nature in between, including the Volcanoes National Park (Mauna Loa is an active volcano!) and Mauna Kea (a dormant volcano now home to a NASA observatory). From what we understood, Hilo is the “big city” with more “stuff to do” if you live on the island. However, Kona is near most of the luxury resorts and within easy driving distance of the tourist-oriented sites, so it’s more popular with tourists. Kona’s downtown is basic suburbia – think strip malls, some big name stores (Costco, Target, Ross, Walmart, etc.) – paired with a few historic sites and a small historic district. The distances aren’t long, but it’s clear everyone drives on island time (except of course the stretch in the mountains with no guard rail, where locals were going 60+ and we were at a nice slow 40 or so mph).

A view of a rocky, lava-strewn landscape with sparse grass in the foreground and a clear blue sky above. The ocean is visible in the distance, with a hint of greenery on the horizon.

For our first meal, we opted for Pau Hana Poke, one of Kona’s top-rated poke spots. It’s a little shop with limited space for a line, so after multiple parking attempts (you kind of just… find space along the road and angle so you’re not in traffic) and a short wait outside, we were inside to order.

Interior of a poke restaurant featuring a wooden counter, menu display, and a staff member preparing food behind a glass partition. A sign with the word 'POKE' hangs above, while various ingredients and utensils are visible in the kitchen area.

We tried the spicy ahi, Hawaiian-style ahi, shoyu ahi, and salmon lomi-lomi (small chopped salted salmon pieces with tomatoes and onion, almost like a seafood pico de gallo without the cilantro or jalapeno) along with sides of rice topped with a homemade furikake seasoning. I also got a side of seaweed salad, which was phenomenal (so fresh and really toothsome, unlike the slimy and limp stuff we get at home!). I also tried the Hawaiian ‘soda’ which felt reasonably healthy and tasted like fruit juice.

A takeout box containing poke with diced fish, tomato salsa, seaweed salad, and rice balls, accompanied by a can of Coca-Cola and Hawaiian soda.

From there, we quickly detoured to Costco for a restroom (they were kind enough to let us in the warehouse after I realized I hadn’t brought my physical card and needed to download a digital card). I wish I’d gotten a picture of the outdoor food court – it seemed almost as popular as the poke!

From there, we headed across the street to Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park. The park is one of a few sites where you can learn about ancient Hawaiian history on the Big Island. Interestingly, as we pulled up, we were greeted with a First Amendment “site” (aka a place you’re safe to protest). Throughout the island, we’d see a couple reminders to (presumably American tourists) that Hawaii is subject to the US federal government’s laws – does not inspire confidence about US school systems!

A sign indicating a 'First Amendment Area' in a national park, with clear skies and volcanic rock landscape in the background.

The park itself is a bit sparse, but I’m glad we visited (as you read on, you’ll see I was unable to see the main Hawaiian history site that actually led us to book our trip to the Big Island due to the hurricanes surrounding Hawaii during our visit). Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park includes a petroglyph trail, a beach with a fish trap and rebuilt Polynesian-style structures, and a cove that has a few local turtles often grazing.

Of course, it also features quite a bit of volcanic rock and some incredibly resilient grass species. Without quite reading the warning signage, we headed off towards the beach.

A lush green plant stands resiliently in a rocky, barren landscape under a cloudy sky, with a winding path in the background.

The ~1.5-mile hike from the visitor center / parking lot passes through a variety of volcanic-stone lined hills. As we’d discover, these are neither easy to walk over nor cool – it’s amazing how much heat the stones retain and reflect. It’s also interesting to see how the volcanic stones retain some of the shape from the lava as it would have looked while flowing.

A wooden bench sits on a rocky, volcanic landscape under a cloudy sky, surrounded by sparse vegetation.
Close-up view of textured volcanic rock with plant growth and dry grass in the surrounding area.

Apparently, the ancient Hawaiians chose to settle on the lava fields because they found cool, brackish water springs, suggesting that there was an underground water source that could sustain a community. The ancient Hawaiians were quite resourceful – they apparently utilized everything available in nature, from stone, wood, bark, sap, fiber, roots, and leaves to marine plants, herbs, fruits, fish, birds, and other small animals. They also discovered how to grow crops such as sweet potatoes in the stone, using coconut husks soaked in water to provide moisture and prevent direct sun exposure.

Interestingly, the chiefs also gave each community a long strip of land from the “mountain to the sea” which allowed them to access a variety of resources. The communities apparently were quite egalitarian, with folks living upland bringing poi (a dish made from the taro plant) and other crops to their community by the shore in return for salt, fish, and seafood.

The first site we stumbled upon was the petroglyph field, which had about 6 different stops with petroglyphs in various states of visibility.

A barren landscape featuring a stone path, surrounded by sparse vegetation and a wooden gazebo with seating under a cloudy sky.

Below, from left to right, you can see a figure, a figure (top middle) and traditional fish hook (bottom middle) and another figure. Apparently there’s a better petroglyph site in Waikoloa, but we unfortunately didn’t visit it.

Close-up of textured gray rock surface with visible cracks and uneven patterns.
Close-up view of rocky terrain featuring ancient petroglyphs carved into the stone surface.
Close-up view of a rocky surface with petroglyphs or ancient carvings visible on the stone.

The highlight of the park was seeing a Honu (“turtle”) moseying along enjoying some algae.

A sea turtle swimming in shallow water with a rocky seabed visible beneath the surface.

During the snorkeling we did later in the weekend, we learned that a variety of fish “prune” the turtles to help clean the gunk of their shells (which you can see above).

Because of ongoing conservation activity, the fish pond and some of the other highlights were roped off, but we were able to see a couple more ‘modern’ structures, including a walled animal pen and a temple platform.

A rocky landscape with patches of low vegetation and dry plants, featuring a small stone structure in the background under a cloudy sky.
Wooden gate made from branches, leading into a natural area with greenery and a cloudy sky in the background.

The fish pond (not pictured since we couldn’t get to it) is a manmade feature that has brackish water due to a mixture of saltwater from the ocean and freshwater from the springs, which fluctuates with the tide as it sits just a few hundred feet from the ocean shore. In the case of this park, it’s separated from the ocean by a naturally formed sea “berm” (aka natural sand bank). The restoration has apparently been quite successful in about a year, with endangered waterfowl coming back into the area.

From there, we wandered to the beach after backtracking (and seeing several mongooses in the underbrush!).

View of the ocean waves gently crashing on a shore with a small beach and palm trees in the background.
A tropical beach scene featuring a thatched hut, palm trees, and several people engaged in activities near the shoreline.
A scenic beach view with palm trees, rocky shores, and people enjoying the water and sand under a clear blue sky.

The interior of the rebuilt structure near the fish trap is clean and definitely keeps the sun away!

Interior view of a traditional thatched roof structure, showcasing wooden beams and natural foliage in the background.

At the beach, we saw the famed fish trap, which is the only one remaining on the island of Hawaii (you can see it on the left hand side in the distance – it looks like a stone rectangle). Essentially, fish entered the pond at high tide through a narrow channel and then the enclosures such as this one were used as pens for netted fish.

Scenic view of a calm beach with palm trees and rocky shoreline under a cloudy sky.
A tranquil beach scene featuring a sandy shore, gentle waves, and a single palm tree with a cloudy sky in the background.

From there, hot and blistered due to our lack of footwear foresight, we headed back towards the parking lot. We even caught a glimpse of Honu on the way back!

A sea turtle swimming in calm waters near rocky shoreline.

Thoroughly overheated upon our summit back to the parking lot, we opted to stop back in Kona for a quick cool treat at Sweet Spoon. I opted for a lilikoi and coconut shave ice, which hit the spot (my husband got the same flavors as ice cream). Fortuitously, we started seeing signs for Kona Brewing and stopped in for a frozen mai tai and beer.

Entrance to a tropical outdoor bar featuring colorful decorations, potted plants, and a wooden counter.
A person holding a cup of shaved ice topped with a fluffy white texture, with a black straw inserted, surrounded by outdoor seating and greenery.
Two hands raising drinks at a bar: one holding a beer with the Kona Brewing Co. logo and the other holding a tropical cocktail garnished with a pineapple slice.
A wooden beer tap handle display featuring various craft beer taps in a cozy bar setting.

After a much sweatier afternoon than expected, we headed north through the incredibly beautiful and stark volcanic landscape up to Waikoloa to our hotel. Pictures really don’t do it justice – the volcanic rocks stretch for miles in each direction and as you head north, you start to see black rock followed by deep blue ocean with a little bit of green in the distance.

A scenic landscape featuring brown volcanic rock formations, patches of tall grass, and a clear blue sky, with a few trees in the distance.
A scenic view of a mountainous landscape under a partly cloudy sky, featuring lush green areas and sparse vegetation in the foreground.

The following day, we set out again, heading south back to Kona. We intended to see a variety of modern and ancient historic sites along the western coast of the Big Island. Starting in Kona’s historic district, we saw the Hulihe‘e Palace and Mokuaikaua Church.

A street scene featuring a large tree on the left, a church with a tall spire in the background, and various shops on the right. The sky is partly cloudy, and there are palm trees and colorful flowers along the sidewalk.
A stone church building with a tall spire under a bright blue sky, surrounded by greenery.

The Mokuaikaua Church is Hawaii’s oldest church, founded by missionaries in 1920. While the building itself wasn’t open, we explored the grounds and caught a quick look inside via a window.

Historic church building with a tall steeple, surrounded by tropical plants and palm trees.
Stone archway leading to a church with a tall steeple and lush greenery under a blue sky.
A bronze sculpture depicting a woman with a headscarf and a lion, both held by hands emerging from a stone base, surrounded by lush greenery and palm trees.
Interior view of a historical building with wooden beams and red carpet, featuring a ship model and seating areas.

Then, we headed across the street to the Hulihe‘e Palace.

Historic building surrounded by palm trees against a clear blue sky.
Close-up of a decorative wrought iron gate featuring a coat of arms, flanked by two figures holding staffs, surrounded by intricate metalwork and tropical palm trees in the background.

We’d previously visited the Iolani Palace in Honolulu and learned that this palace was built by the brother-in-law of King Kamahameha I after the royal court relocated to O’ahu. The palace itself was built in 1835 following the construction of the church and became the brother-in-law’s home, as well as a vacation residence for the remainder of the royal family when visiting the Big Island.

It’s a stately building located right along the coastline, with spectacular views (and unfortunately some damage from the recent hurricane and at risk of flooding due to the two hurricanes currently surrounding the Big Island, causing immense surf, which you can see from the upstairs balcony).

View from a porch looking out onto lush green grass, palm trees, and ocean waves in the background with a clear blue sky.
View of an ocean and shoreline through a decorative railing, with waves crashing and lush greenery in the distance under a clear blue sky.

The home is smaller than you’d expect – two large rooms on each of the two floors, accompanied by large living areas and balconies on both.

A wooden foyer with a staircase, featuring a bust on a pedestal adorned with foliage, decorative dried plants nearby, and an open door leading outside.

As with Iolani Palace, a variety of artifacts were on display, including:

  • Na Hulu, beautiful feathers that were then used to adorn kahili (the feathered scepters), hats, and other royal attire such as helmets or capes. Apparently, the feathers come from the now-extinct ‘O’o bird. To gather the features, skilled bird catchers (kia manu) would observe the birds to determine which branches they’d land on, then spreading the branches with sap to catch the birds. Then, they’d remove the feathers and clean the bird’s feet, releasing it afterwards
  • Shark-skin covered drums (so interesting how resources are used by different cultures – in Japan, shark skin is used to grate wasabi finely)
  • Lei Niho Palaoa, a traditional ‘curio’ (necklace?) carved from sperm whale teeth and braids of human hair; apparently in the 19th century, other sources of ivory were prevalent enough that these were produced and sold to the masses, transitioning them from a symbol of royalty
  • An exhibit on the native Hawaiian royal sport of sled surfing, aka creating a sloped track on rocks / mud and then ‘sledding’ down the track into the water – apparently one of the tracks was almost 4,000 feet long (this sounds super fun, but super dangerous!)
  • Beautiful garments, including two dresses and multiple hats incorporating local fabric and features from peacocks and other birds
  • Gorgeous wooden furniture
  • Paddles adorned with shark teeth
A tall, vintage lamp with a unique yellow feathered shade and a purple fabric base stands in the corner of a wooden room featuring antique furniture.
A uniquely designed stool with a round, padded top in a deep burgundy color, surrounded by a fringe of decorative, feather-like material.
Three wooden drums of varying sizes displayed indoors, with a window in the background and labels attached to the drums.
Top view of a pahu drum made with shark skin, featuring decorative stitching and an informational label about its cultural significance.
An artistic display featuring two bundles of dark hair arranged symmetrically with a light-colored oval-shaped object in the center, all set on textured paper.
A fluffy yellow collar displayed on a purple cloth surface.
A wooden paddle with shark teeth along the edge, displayed in a glass case.
A display case filled with various cultural artifacts, including necklaces and woven items, set in a museum room with wooden floors and natural light from windows.
A vintage wooden cradle with a decorative blue and white canopy, placed next to a small round table displaying a framed photograph.
A wooden bed with a pink and cream quilt, an ornate headboard, and surrounding vintage furniture, including a cabinet and framed artwork on the wall depicting a woman playing an instrument.

Amazingly, they have photos of the actual royal family! It’s so interesting seeing a Hawaiian ruler wearing Victorian garb alongside traditional ceremonial objects.

Historical black and white portrait of Princess Ruth Keʻelikolani seated, flanked by two men holding feather fans, framed with a wooden border.

The dresses showcased in the property are also beautiful – I love the textures and interplay of colors (which you don’t associate with the Victorian era!). I also love the amazing hats – including the hat made of peacock feathers!

A vintage evening gown displayed on a mannequin, featuring intricate lace and feather detailing. The dress has a fitted bodice and a flowing skirt, set against a backdrop of a historical room with wooden floors and framed artwork.
A vintage purple dress with green accents displayed on a mannequin, featuring puffed sleeves, a bow at the back, and detailed button closures.
A vintage black hat adorned with decorative feathers and a decorative band, resting on a wooden surface.
A woven straw hat with a tall crown and wide brim, featuring a white fur trim around the base of the crown.
A close-up of a peacock feather with shimmering blue and green hues, displayed in a glass case.

The gorgeous heavy wooden furniture was also impressive.

A vintage bedroom featuring a four-poster bed, ornate wooden furniture including a round table and carved chairs, and a chandelier hanging from the ceiling. The room is illuminated by natural light from windows with green shutters.
A vintage wooden wardrobe with intricate carvings, featuring ornate figures on top and decorative elements on the doors.

As mentioned before, the surf was incredibly high – you can see it spilling over the sea wall below on the ground floor – there were even bigger waves driving into Kona, flooding the road for short stretches.

View of the ocean with waves crashing against a rocky shore, framed by a porch railing and columns, featuring a clear blue sky and palm trees in the distance.

After the palace, we wandered through the Kona Inn Shopping Village down to a strip mall with our lunch destination. The walk offered nice views of “lived” Kona, alongside a few touristy shops.

Entrance to Kona Inn Shopping Village with a sign, palm trees, and a sunny blue sky.

We stumbled upon a lovely farmer’s market, which had all of Hawaii’s best produce on display: gorgeous pineapples, oranges, papayas, rambutans, and other assorted fruits and flowers.

A white van parked in a lot with its side door open, revealing stacked boxes of apples inside. Two varieties, marked as 'Envy' and 'Organic', are also visible on the ground.
A vibrant farmers market stall featuring a variety of fresh fruits including pineapple, bananas, papayas, mangoes, dragon fruit, and star fruit, displayed in labeled boxes and bins. A vendor is seen in the background.
A vibrant flower market display featuring colorful tropical flowers, including red anthuriums and yellow ginger flowers, arranged in pots and buckets. A can of sliced peaches is also visible on the table.

We also passed some lovely architecture – including a nice mural in front of the Hawaii Parks & Rec building.

Outdoor view of a marketplace with surfboards stacked on a rack, surrounded by buildings with red roofs, and a tree in the center under a blue sky.
A brightly colored mural depicting figures in action on the side of a building, with text reading 'HALE HALAWAI' and signifying a park and recreation department. In front, there is a yellow fire hydrant and traffic barriers.

Upon wandering into a relatively nondescript strip mall, we arrived at our destination: Island Ono Loa Grill. The open-air restaurant is known for its burgers, but we opted for the Kahlua Pork plate (accompanied by rice and macaroni salad) as well as the Kahlua Pork Loco Moco (topped with gravy and a runny egg). We also got onion rings and were not disappointed.

A plate of food featuring pulled pork in a brown gravy, accompanied by macaroni salad and two servings of white rice, garnished with chopped green onions.
A plate featuring shredded meat covered in sauce, accompanied by a side of macaroni salad with colorful vegetables.
A basket of crispy onion rings on a red and white checkered paper with a small cup of dipping sauce.

Since we had a bit of time before our coffee farm tour, we explored the strip mall area more. Since Hawaii is currently experiencing multiple hurricanes (both thankfully went around the Big Island with limited damage, other than high surf!), our weather was pretty good. We did get a good chuckle from the group playing in the giant waves right by the water despite the oncoming traffic.

Weather radar map of Hawaii showing precipitation activity with Honolulu labeled.
A coastal road with a gray SUV driving next to crashing waves, where several people are enjoying the ocean spray. In the background, a large hotel is visible amid palm trees under a partly cloudy sky.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time after lunch to visit our next historic destination, Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (roughly a ~40 minute drive south of Kona), so we opted to arrive early for the coffee farm tour we had planned at Heavenly Hawaiian Kona Coffee Farm.

On the way, we pulled off near the Captain Cook monument, only to be met with a skittering mongoose at the pulloff (and gorgeous views!).

Scenic view of the ocean and coastline under a clear blue sky, with foreground greenery and waves breaking on the shore.
A panoramic view of the ocean and coastline, surrounded by lush greenery under a clear blue sky.

Upon arrival at Heavenly Hawaiian Kona Coffee Farm, you drive up an increasingly steep and unpaved hill, and are then rewarded with the view of lush coffee trees (many of which had ripe ‘cherries’ aka red coffee beans). You can see a few on the tree below.

A coffee tree with clusters of ripe red coffee cherries, surrounded by lush greenery and a cloudy sky.
A scenic road surrounded by lush greenery leading to a red-roofed shelter on the right, with a vehicle parked nearby.

Since we arrived early, we were seated on the patio to relax and enjoy the views. It was amazing looking out and not seeing a horizon – absolutely stunning landscape!

Lush green landscape with tropical plants in the foreground and a winding road leading into the distance, under a cloudy sky.

Since we got there early, we had the opportunity to sample 5 different varieties of coffee, all locally grown. Kona coffee is only grown within a ~30 mile radius and is extremely expensive (but delicious). Ironically, because it’s so expensive, we didn’t buy any (it’s ~$60/bag), but it was nice getting to see how it’s grown, processed, and stored (and tasting it, despite the caffeine headache!). My Hawaiian friend was like, “Haven’t you been to a coffee farm before? Why go back??” (oh, locals!).

A covered drying area with several sections of coffee beans spread out on green flooring under a cloudy sky.
A scenic view of lush greenery and distant hills, with four small cups of beverage placed on a wooden surface in the foreground.

For the main event, we attended the “Brew Your Best Cup” class, where we brewed both a French-press and pour over style coffee. By manipulating the coarseness of the grounds, water temperature, water minerality, steeping time and other factors, we truly saw and tasted a difference in the two styles of coffee.

A rustic seating area with tables covered in burlap bags featuring 'Heavenly Hawaiian Farms' branding, set in a green, outdoor environment.
Outdoor coffee brewing station with a wooden table, several coffee pots, glasses, and mugs, accompanied by high stools and a chalkboard menu.

I was surprised by some of the basic tips shared in the class – for example, making sure that the water has a specific minerality, temperature, and ground size. You can see the results on the right hand side – left if the labor-intensive pour over, right is the French press.

A coffee brewing setup featuring a white dripper on top of a glass carafe, with two clear glasses of brewed coffee beside it. The setup is placed on a digital scale displaying the weight, with a background of greenery.
Two hands holding transparent cups with different colored drinks, set against a green landscape.

From there, we finally started our trek south to Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. I was most excited to see this park given its significance to early Hawaiians.

The park itself hosts one of the few remaining ruins of an ancient Hawaiian temple and is a National Historic Site within the US. The site was initially chosen by King Kamahameha I when he took control of the western and northern areas of the island of Hawaii in 1782 but floundered in battle until ~1790 after being attacked by a cousin (who controlled the eastern side of the island). A respected priest suggested building a temple to gain favor of the war god on the site. The Puʻukoholā Heiau (“Temple on the Hill of the Whale”) is suspected to be on a much older site, with some artifacts dating back to ~1580 (and likely much older as well).

Notably, the site also includes early Hawaiian / Polynesian artifacts, including carved statues, rebuilt structures, and a variety of ruins.

On the drive down, we made our way through winding roads surrounded by lush foliage and tropical wild flowers, often overlooking an incredible (slightly scary) view of the ocean. We passed through a variety of small towns, many of which boasted delicious-looking roadside offerings such as fruit, poke, BBQ, and fusion specialties (lots of elote- and Thai-inspired options!).  

Vibrant tropical flowers and lush greenery in the foreground with a beautiful ocean view and blue sky in the background.
Image of Aloha Theatre in Kainalu, featuring a historic facade with an arched roof, surrounded by colorful buildings including a green restaurant and a yellow eatery.

Finally, we pulled into a Hawaiian parking spot (read: pull out next to the road covered in volcanic rock and coconut fronds). As we exited the vehicle, we immediately saw a notice stating the park closure. Not to be deterred that easily, we decided to walk towards the park – only to be met with a Park Ranger we’ve taken to calling No-hana (opposite of Ohana aka Hawaii’s welcoming / familial spirit) who brusquely informed us the park was closed the next several days, as we could have seen on the website. Spoiler: the website was updated approximately 3minutes after we arrived. As we started to pull away, we noticed a group of people heading down an unmarked road towards a beach adjacent to the site. After some fancy reversing, we parked again and followed them in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the sight from across the water.

We were rewarded with a small glimpse, although unfortunately we couldn’t see any of the features specifically.

A coastal view featuring a traditional structure with wooden construction and totem poles, surrounded by palm trees and waves crashing against the shore.
Coastal view of a structure surrounded by palm trees, with a stone wall and ocean waves in the foreground.

You can see how far away we were from the picture below (and how high the surf is from the hurricanes!).

A rocky shoreline meets calm ocean waters under a mostly cloudy sky, with palm trees in the background.

We did see a canoe club, which was pretty cool. Then, we hopped back in the car for the hour and fifteen-minute drive back up to the resort.

An outdoor structure with a thatched roof supported by wooden beams, surrounded by greenery and volcanic rocks.
Traditional thatched roof structure surrounded by lush greenery and trees.
A variety of colorful kayaks and canoes stored on grass, surrounded by lush trees and a traditional thatched-roof building in the background.

For dinner, we ate at Canoe House and tried two local delights: a seared Ahi dish and the local mahi mahi, as well as garlic fried rice and a delicious coconut pandan ice cream sundae.

A plate of seared tuna topped with mixed greens, edible flowers, and garnishes on a textured beige plate, with a background of fried rice and other dishes.
A plated dish featuring a piece of cooked fish on a vibrant yellow sauce, garnished with a mix of fresh greens and edible flowers, set on a textured brown plate with a blurred background.
A plate with two stacked, crispy, golden-brown waffles drizzled with syrup and sprinkled with a dusting of sesame seeds, resting on a wooden table.

As a treat afterward, we saw the absolutely spectacular night sky, including a view of the Milky Way! These photos are taken with an iPhone, nothing fancy – I can only imagine how incredible the photos would be with a dedicated camera / lens and appropriate editing!

A starry night sky filled with countless stars and a faint band of the Milky Way galaxy.
A night sky filled with numerous stars and a faint milky way.
A night sky filled with numerous stars, showcasing a dark, expansive cosmos with subtle hints of celestial color.

The following morning, we finally decided to enjoy the water and hopped on a snorkeling excursion that began with a quarter-mile canoe trip to the Waikoloa reef. Canoeing was very satisfying – especially when we hit some waves on the return trip and got up to speed coming in to short (apparently you can go canoe surfing, which sounds really fun!).

A man standing on the beach beside a kayak, wearing a white t-shirt and teal swim shorts with anchor patterns. He is smiling and giving a thumbs-up, holding snorkeling gear in one hand.
A group of three people in canoes on a calm ocean, with one person facing backward and two others paddling in the distance against a cloudy sky.

The snorkeling was also great – the reefs were probably the healthiest we’ve seen (not bleached) and we saw a ton of sea urchins, angelfish, parrot fish, yellow tang (“Kona gold”), black triggerfish, and even a few small sea turtles!

After that, we relaxed poolside with some local brews and favorites like the classic chicken katsu sandwich.

A hand holding a double-layered sandwich with layers of meat, coleslaw, and tomato, served with a side of fries and ketchup on a white plate.

Of course, the night sky failed to disappoint.

Beach scene at sunset with palm trees and lounge chairs on the sand.
View of a beach resort at sunset, featuring palm trees, lounge chairs, and illuminated outdoor seating.

A few things I really wished we’d been able to do:

  • Explore Waimea, home of the Paniolo culture – this area offers a variety of cultural activities, including the Parker Ranch (working ranch with a small museum), Anna Ranch (house tours only available on Tuesdays / Thursdays), and horseback riding. Local restaurants such as Merriman’s and FORC are also of interest for their focus on local beef
  • Visit the Volcanoes National Park, which offers the opportunity to walk through a lava tube (the tunnels through which lava moves in an active volcano) as well as to observe active lava flow (from a safe distance)
  • Enjoy a sound bath and hike at the Kona Cloud Forest, one of the unique microclimates on the island (and an easy place to go for a relaxing meditation among the lush foliage)
  • Explore more of the island’s restaurants and local cuisine, including more poke, BBQ, Kahlua pork, goat (we saw several wild goats on our drives around), and local coffee / vanilla
  • Visit Hilo, the main town on the eastern side of the island. It’s a bit more commercial / metropolitan, and has a Smithsonian-affiliated history museum
  • Trek up Moana Loa and visit the observatory – we did some amazing stargazing from the resort, so I can only imagine how incredible the celestial views are from atop the mountain!
  • Spend more time at the beach! The island has a variety of glorious beaches, including white sand, black sand, and other relaxing vibes
A performer in traditional attire holds a flaming torch while standing on a lawn near palm trees at sunset, with beach chairs and umbrellas in the background.

Overall, a great trip to the Big Island!

Leave a Reply