Day Trip to Viðareiði & The Northern Isles, Faroe Islands

Today I had the pleasure of driving up to the Northern Islands of the Faroes, including Vidoy, Bordoy, and Kunoy (as well as a trip through Eysturoy) to see the northernmost village in the Faroes, Viðareiði. This is (for some reason) a less popular tourist route, so it was just me and my lovely guide, Hans. A lifelong Faroe Islander descended from generations of Faroese, he was an amazing guide and went out of his way to show me additional sights / pull over to see anything that seemed “interesting” on our drive. Over the course of 4.5 hours, he shared some interesting facts about himself that provide a helpful window into the modern Faroese experience:

  • He’s now retired, but spent his 40+ year career as the captain on ocean-going fishing vessels (160+ people – “a mini-village!” as he said)
  • He’s descended from Faroese fishermen going back at least three generations; his sons also did their “sea time” as teenagers (the ~3 years or so of apprenticeship before you officially become a fisherman) but have decided not to pursue fishing as their careers (he still proudly shared their ranks, including Skipper, which appears to be a role with quite a bit of responsibility)
  • Over the course of his career, he’s fished all over the world, including the Bering Sea (Russia / Alaska), throughout Scandinavia (the North Sea, Norway, Danish waters, etc.), and Africa (Angola, Mauritania); as a result, he speaks Faroese, Icelandic, Norwegian (and therefore is passable in Swedish and Danish), German, Russian, and English
  • He was born and raised in Vestmanna, which is relatively near the capital, Tórshavn, and began his fishing career as a teenager before he even got his driver’s license
  • Apparently, the Faroese language is so similar to Old Norwegian that he could speak with elderly Norwegians earlier in his career (the way he was speaking suggested this generation died off in his youth) and understand them somewhat fluently; this is fascinating to me since most online sources suggest Faroese and Icelandic are mutually intelligible, which doesn’t appear to be his experience
  • In case the above doesn’t convince you he’s legit, he could look at a “ring” of salmon from ~300+ feet above on a fjord and tell me the length / maturity of the salmon at a glance, when to me the “salmon” looked like little bumps in the water as they “jumped” to get feed at the surface

For orientation, here’s a brief map of where we traveled today:

Map of the Faroe Islands highlighting a route from Tórshavn to Viðareiði, showing key locations such as Runavik and Leirvik, with travel time and distance indicated.

As we set out, the first “attraction” on the route was the famed “Roundabout” tunnel, Eysturoyartunnilin. As the name suggests, it has the world’s first undersea roundabout, which includes art from famed Faroese artist Tróndur Patursson. The lighting colors represent the Faroese flag, while the metal sculpture represents the traditional “chain dance” of the Faroe Islands. The tunnel itself is extremely long – almost 7 miles – and you can feel a significant pressure drop as you descend to and travel at nearly 600 feet under the surface for that distance. I asked why we had to go so deep and he had a logical but non-intuitive answer: the water itself is deep, then you need additional buffer under the seafloor, then you need to have vertical clearance for the tunnel. Despite all of this, there were still instances where water dripped onto the windshield and down the walls. Hans reassured me that there are multiple pumps and lots of redundancies should any water start to leak, but it was unsettling for a landlubber like myself, nonetheless!

Sign indicating junction for Strendur, Klaksvik, and Runavik located in the Eysturoyartunnilin tunnel, illuminated with lights.
Illuminated undersea roundabout tunnel featuring a color display of blue and red lights, reflecting the Faroese flag, with metal silhouettes representing the traditional 'chain dance'.

I then asked for more insight on the “chain dance” as this was something I read about but haven’t seen much referenced here so far. It originated hundreds of years ago as part of Faroese oral tradition, with ~150+ verses that essentially tell the oral history of the country. Today, it’s performed for weddings (with special wedding verses!), events, and at national celebrations (during one of the recent national celebrations, nearly 10,000 people were involved in the chain!). Apparently, the “chain dance” apparently started to die out, but has been resurrected by Faroese youth, in the interest of preserving their culture and heritage.

On the other side of the tunnel, we entered Runavík. Here we passed the first of many ports, as well as the second largest salmon factory in the country. I’d never seen the “crane” (fork-ish lift?) that moves shipping containers in action before and it was neat to watch – it made that immense container look like a Lego block! Below is the salmon factory.

A view of a harbor in the Faroe Islands with cargo containers, a crane, and fishing vessels under a cloudy sky.
A view of a harbor with several buildings, including a modern structure, set against a backdrop of green hills under a cloudy sky in the Faroe Islands.

The views only became more impressive as we headed northward and I got to my first views of the striking fjords.

A scenic view of the green hills and mountains of the Faroe Islands under a cloudy sky, with a calm fjord in the background.

We passed through one of the towns that participates in the Faroe Islands annual music festival – the only place with size for the stage is right on the beach!

Scenic view of a village by the water in the Faroe Islands, featuring colorful houses and a mountainous backdrop under a cloudy sky.

Next up, we passed through the small village of Leirvík (I wish I’d gotten a picture – my boss would have been amused!) on our way up to Klaksvík. This is officially the transition to the “Northern Isles” via the Norðoyatunnilin, which also has lovely light art in it (by the same Faroese artist).

Interior view of Eysturoyartunnilin tunnel in the Faroe Islands, featuring colorful lighting in red and blue, with vehicles visible inside.

Hans shared that he lived in Klaksvík as a young fisherman (in his teens, so probably ~45-50 years ago) and the hotel in the below photo (white building to the left of the hospital) was then called a “Seaman’s Home” and housed the young fisherman who worked nearby. During this time, he also worked on a construction crew that helped to build the “old” road (which formerly led to a “old tunnel” now bypassed using a modern tunnel) that connected several of the villages further on the fjord. We drove on one of these roads / through one of these tunnels and I have to say, I’m thankful “modern” tunnels exist now!

View of the town of Klaksvík in the Faroe Islands, featuring colorful houses along the waterfront with mountains in the background.

In Klaksvík, we also stopped for a quick visit at Áhugafelagið Nólsoyar Páll, which is the former residence of national hero Nólsoyar Páll. I wasn’t able to translate Hans’ notes to English, but Wikipedia tells me that Nólsoyar lived in the late 1700s and was responsible for opening the Faroes to trading in direct refute of the Danish Royal Trade Monopoly (the same policy that crippled Iceland’s trade), training the Faroese in deep-sea fishing techniques, and bringing the first smallpox vaccines to the Faroes, introducing the concept of vaccination to the islands early. Amusingly, the primary illicit trade items in question included 2,600 knitted sweaters. The property has been entirely rebuilt and now operates as an event space / restaurant, with a lovely location right on the water.

A traditional Faroese farmhouse with a grass-covered roof, showcasing wooden walls and stone pavement in the courtyard.
Two traditional Faroese grass-roofed houses made of wood and stone, surrounded by a rocky path and grassy landscape under a cloudy sky.

Of course, traffic looks a little different here! Hans was unphased and tersely suggested they were just moving their boat from fjord to fjord – of course, as one does.

View of a rural road in the Faroe Islands with a truck driving, surrounded by colorful houses and a mountainous landscape under a cloudy sky.

From there, we continued northward through the tiny village of Depil, population 2. Depil does have one amazing sight: a ~300 year old farmhouse that’s still standing.

A traditional Faroese farmhouse with a grass roof, nestled in a green landscape with a mountain backdrop, under a cloudy sky.

As we drove by, Hans reinforced some of my learnings from yesterday, including that the Faroes traditionally would have used driftwood for these types of homes, and reserved wood for human-occupied spaces. Here, you can see that the left-hand side is stone; this is where animals would have lived. He also noted that the Faroese farmers, absent any form of interior heating element, would have slept on the second floor, above the animal stables, so that they could take advantage of the body heat rising from the animals on cold winter days. Genius!

Thus far, you probably think that the tunnels are comfortably large and well lighted. Not so for all of them. The previous ones are the biggies, frequented by daily commuters and increasingly by tourists. The old school tunnels still exist, and they are terrifying. Unsurprisingly, we had to take one to get to the northmost (connected) island, Vidoy. As you can see below, they do not have any interior lighting, are one-lane, and have narrow pullouts for any oncoming traffic. Thankfully on the way over, we had a straight shot – on the way back, Hans gunned it between oncoming traffic (responsibly, we were safe, yadda yadda) and we pulled over when needed (according to him: “For Faroese, there’s room to go side by side, it’s big enough, but you never know if its a tourist”).

View from inside a car approaching a dark tunnel in the Faroe Islands, showing the road ahead and tunnel barriers.

Now for the good stuff: the views! The Northern Isles are spectacular and the views were incredibly stunning. You can see the millions of years of volcanic deposits, erosion, and the lushness of the fjords.

A scenic view of a road in the Faroe Islands, flanked by steep green hills under a cloudy sky, with a warning sign on the roadside.
Scenic view of a gently sloping green hillside above a calm body of water, with a cluster of colorful houses along the shore, set against a cloudy sky.
A scenic view of a coastal landscape in the Faroe Islands, featuring rugged cliffs rolling down to the ocean under a cloudy sky.

In the photo above, you can see the island of Fugloy (“Bird Island”) in the distance; apparently, the village is on the other side of the island and you have to take a ferry to get there. Hans’ mother-in-law was from that village, and she moved from the Northern Isles at around 15 years old to work as a housekeeper. These familial insights fascinated me and tell a compelling personal history of the culture of the islands.

Shortly thereafter, we arrived at our destination: the northmost village in the Faroe Islands, Viðareiði on the island of Vidoy. The views were absolutely breathtaking. Photos honestly don’t do it justice.

A scenic view of a calm sea surrounded by steep green cliffs and rocky terrain under an overcast sky in the Faroe Islands.
A panoramic view of a coastal village in the Faroe Islands, featuring green hills, a calm sea, and low-hanging clouds above the mountains.
A scenic view of a traditional wooden farmhouse with a rusty corrugated roof, set against a backdrop of lush green hills and a fjord in the Faroe Islands.
A picturesque view of the northernmost village in the Faroe Islands, Viðareiði, featuring green hills, a tranquil bay, and traditional Faroese houses under a cloudy sky.
Scenic view of the northern Faroe Islands featuring green hills, a river, and cliffs in the background, with a red barn on the right and sheep grazing.
A picturesque view of a green landscape in the Faroe Islands, featuring a stream flowing through the grass, wooden bridges, and charming houses with colorful roofs in the background, under a cloudy sky.
A scenic view of the coastline of Viðareiði in the Faroe Islands, showcasing steep green mountains, rocky shores, and a calm sea under a cloudy sky.
A scenic view of Viðareiði village in the Faroe Islands, showcasing traditional houses with grassy landscapes and mountains in the background.
A scenic view of green hills with several puffin figurines scattered around, a red house partially visible in the background, and a cloudy mountain range looming above.
A scenic view of green hills and cliffs beside a calm fjord in the Faroe Islands, with grazing sheep scattered across the landscape.
A serene road leading through a green landscape in the Faroe Islands, lined with traditional houses, with a prominent mountain in the background under a cloudy sky.

The main item to see in town is the Viðareiði Kirkja, which is a lovely church dating back almost 500 years (although it’s been rebuilt several times).

A scenic view of Viðareiði Kirkja, a traditional church structure with a steeple, set against a backdrop of a green hill and cloudy sky. The church is surrounded by lush grass and a stone wall.
Side view of Viðareiði Kirkja, a historic church in the Faroe Islands, featuring a peaked roof, decorative symbols on its walls, and a cloudy sky in the background.

The church graveyard includes graves dating back hundreds of years, and the church itself has similarly “simple” yet beautiful internal design.

Two red crosses stand in front of a stone wall, overlooking a serene fjord with green hills and cliffs in the background under a cloudy sky.
Interior view of Viðareiði Kirkja, featuring wooden pews and arched windows allowing light to illuminate the space.

On the way back, we took in the additional views, including a cute little poultry “farm” decorated with Faroese architecture. Not pictured: a cute baby goose that we made friends with, and an aggressive male turkey who definitely found us to be a threat to his territory.

A small collection of miniature black and white houses on a grassy hillside near a calm body of water, with a lone goose standing nearby and dramatic cloudy mountains in the background.

From there, we began our return south. The drive to the little of village of Hvannasund is extremely beautiful, with great views of a salmon farm in the fjord from above. Hans shared a lot of insights about the process of salmon fishing, including:

  • The salmon are often hatched on shore (he spotted a salmon swimming in the pool in the photo above!) and then moved to the “rings” to fully mature
  • An anchored barge runs “lines” to the rings to provide feed on an automated schedule; some of the rings also have nets, as birds have of course noticed the free meal (and some of the birds will even eat the salmon!)
  • Every so often, the Faroese fishing companies will actually move the salmon from the salt water “rings” to fresh water pools on board specifically-designed vessels (bottom photo below); after a while, this kills all the parasites, sea lice, etc. that otherwise would afflict the salmon and this makes Faroese salmon just as healthy as “wild” salmon (and for all points and purposes, it is pretty wild in these beautiful rings!)
  • I (stupidly) asked if the transition to fresh water would hurt the salmon – Hans kindly reminded me that, in the wild, salmon naturally transition from saltwater (ocean) to freshwater (rivers) and therefore undergo this process by natural design (again… genius!)
A panoramic view of a fishing boat navigating near circular salmon farming rings in a serene fjord, framed by steep, rocky cliffs under cloudy skies.
A picturesque view of salmon farms set against a steep green cliff in the Faroe Islands, under a cloudy sky.
A ship anchored near a high, green mountain under a cloudy sky in the Faroe Islands.

Fun fact: during Covid, the Faroese discovered that the Covid testing kits are the same type used for testing salmon and therefore were in plentiful stock! As soon as the reactive agents were available, they were able to use their excess stock of test kits to quickly test the majority of the population and go “green” on the European Covid scale quickly. It turns out that the new Hilton Garden Inn (the fanciest hotel in the country) had just opened two weeks before Covid, and obviously had to adjust quickly. So, the Hilton slashed its rates and many Faroese treated themselves to nice “stay-cations” in the capital!

We then passed through the lovely little town of Hvannasund, which provided additional fjord views.

Scenic view of a fjord in the Faroe Islands, with mountains on either side and small village houses in foreground.
View of a fjord lined with colorful houses and steep mountains under a cloudy sky.

We then briefly visited the island of Kunoy, which is small but offers lovely views.

A scenic view of a fjord in the Faroe Islands, with rolling green hills on either side and a small village along the shoreline. The sky is cloudy, adding a dramatic atmosphere to the landscape.

Apparently the village on the far left valley in the photo below is famous for the legend of the “seal woman” – as the story goes, a group of people dressed as seals came into town (for what reason, it’s unclear, but it sounds like this was a Trojan Horse type scenario). One of the women dropped her seal skin, and a local man snatched it. Since she was now stuck there, they eventually married and had a family, all while the husband kept the seal skin under lock and key. One day, he forgot the keys while fishing and, after racing back to shore, discovered his wife had turned back into a seal and jumped in the ocean as he returned. I’m sure it’s more exciting in Faroese!

A scenic view of the rugged landscape in the Faroe Islands, featuring green hills and rocky cliffs over a calm sea under a cloudy sky.

Hans also shared that the sheep (which are all privately owned!) typically only “shed” like you can see below when there are periods of unseasonably hot weather, which occurred the past several weeks. I have to say, the sheep are quite friendly – this one bleated at us for quite a while before resuming grazing, and many of the “mama” sheep have been somewhat aggressive in protecting their babies.

A serene landscape in the Faroe Islands featuring a grassy hillside with a mountain backdrop under a cloudy sky, and a grazing sheep in the foreground.
A serene landscape featuring a pathway leading towards steep, grassy mountains under a cloudy sky in the Faroe Islands.
A panoramic view of a deep valley surrounded by steep, grassy mountains, with clouds hovering over the peaks.
A panoramic view of a large, green island with a cloud cover above, seen from the sea.
A scenic view of a fjord surrounded by steep green mountains under a cloudy sky in the Faroe Islands, with a small boat visible on the water.

We also passed the largest salmon factory, run by Faroese company Bakkafrost, nestled against a lovely fjord.

A scenic view of a green mountain rising above a building near the water, under a cloudy sky in the Faroe Islands.

After that, we retraced our steps. Back in Tórshavn, I headed to lunch and came upon a group of people gathered around a convoy of cars. It turns out the King of Denmark (Denmark ‘owns’ the Faroes) is in town and I got a quick glimpse!

Group of people gathered outside Hotel Hafnia, waving, with a person in traditional attire.

For lunch, I visited Bitlin, which specializes in Scandinavian-styple open-faced sandwiches. I had the baked fish, which was lovely.

Interior of a cozy cafe with wooden chairs and tables, featuring patrons seated at various tables. The decor includes pendant lights and a wooden shelf with plants and decorative items.
A plate of freshly prepared baked fish topped with crispy fried onions and a slice of lemon, accompanied by a glass of water and a tall drink, served on a simple white dish.

After lunch, I meandered through town for a little while, admiring both the street art and the decor (lots of Danish flags that definitely were not up before!) that was put up for the King’s visit.

A colorful mural featuring fish and floral designs on a white wall, set against a backdrop of a yellow house and cloudy skies in the Faroe Islands.
Street view of a charming town in the Faroe Islands, featuring traditional stone and wooden buildings, along with flags and trees lining the pathway.
A colorful mural on the side of a building featuring illustrations of people interacting with various objects in a whimsical, playful style.

On my way back to the Airbnb by the port, I discovered that the King of Denmark definitely travels in style – check out the royal boat!

A large, elegant ship with a light-colored hull, decorated with flags, docked at a harbor against a cloudy sky.
View of the harbor in Tórshavn, with boats docked and colorful buildings along the waterfront, under a cloudy sky.

For dinner, I’d made reservations weeks ago for what was unsurprisingly a highlight (thus far!) of my time here: Michelin-rated Ræst. This term (“ræst”) refers to the Faroese method of preserving fish and lamb via fermentation (typically, via aging in “drying shacks” with open-air slits, where the salt from sea breezes cures the meat over time). The restaurant is referred to as the “smelly” sister of the “fancy” seafood restaurant I have booked for tomorrow, but if this meal was any indication, I’m in for a good time!

The meal was truly incredible – most interestingly, the head chef, Chef Sebastian Jiménez, infuses every dish with Mexican flair and it made the flavors truly unforgettable. The whole team was fantastic (and one chef even razzed me for not having previously tried sea cucumber in SF’s Chinatown, which I shall be rectifying as soon as I get home!).

A traditional Faroese house with a grass-covered roof, featuring wooden walls and a blue door. In front, there is a wooden grill and stone path adorned with greenery.
A traditional Faroese house with a grass roof, featuring a green cooking grill and a lantern on a stone pathway.

The meal included:

  • A welcome drink, made of sea urchin and burned leeks
  • A “tostada” which included grilled ‘horse mussel’ (a mussel 4x the size of one we’d see in the USA), accompanied by preserves from 2024
  • A scallop served with local seaweeds (several from the village I visited yesterday!)
  • Cod terrine, with fermented sweet potato and dried local seaweed – amusingly, this was served with an oil made from the “flowers” on the table; it was very playful for them to take the ‘centerpiece’ and pour it on the food
  • An amazing langoustine, with a fresh salsa and Faroese ‘flat bread’ (the concept was a taco, but made with rye!)
  • Fermented mackerel, with kombu-washed skin and pickled crow berries, gooseberries and caviar
  • Sea cucumber “chicharrón” and herbs – this was an amazing bite AND they invited me into the kitchen to observe (and I got to pet a sea cucumber, which is apparently an animal related to urchin)
  • The fermented Faroese lamb, Skerpikjøt, served with smoked honey and thyme
  • Lamb heart, served with a demi glace from the fermented lamb bones, as well as a unique chimichurri and delicious housemade brioche
  • A Ræst pasta, colored to match traditional Faroese dress, with fermented lamb, rhubarb, and pickled chilis
  • An amazing sea urchin creme bruleé, with passion fruit
  • Fermented rice milk, sea truffle (the same seaweed from the terrine above!) and hazelnuts
  • Fermented “grass” ice cream, chamomile, and macadamia nuts
  • A “churro” which was intended to be dipped in caviar
  • A dulce de leche “ball”
  • Incredible wine pairings – of special interest was a “Lighthouse Project” sweet wine that was paired with savory courses; this wine is a French wine for which the grapes were actually “infected” with some type of fungus, which makes the grapes less productive but more “interesting”
A beautifully arranged dining table featuring a unique dish resembling a sea urchin, with a glass of wine and a candle in the background.
A beautifully arranged dish featuring scallops served in their shells, garnished with colorful sauce and small herbs, accompanied by a glass of white wine and a lit candle on a wooden table.
A beautifully plated dish featuring a small portion of seafood on a decorative black base, garnished with edible flowers, sitting on a rustic, textured plate made of speckled ceramic.
A beautifully presented dish with a creamy sauce and two wine glasses, sitting on a wooden table in a cozy dining setting.
A small green ceramic vase with pink flowers and green leaves, placed on a wooden table with a cozy background of books and decorative items.
Close-up of a bottle of Château d'Yquem 2020 wine on a wooden coaster, with a dining table in the background.
A beautifully presented dish featuring a grilled food topping on a flatbread, garnished with fresh herbs, accompanied by two glasses of wine and a small dish of green sauce, all set on a wooden table.
A beautifully arranged plate featuring a piece of cooked fish alongside caviar, a vibrant green sauce, and decorative dots of sauce, set on a wooden table with glasses of wine and a candle in the background.
A close-up of a ceramic cup filled with a dark liquid, sitting on a wooden table next to a glass of water, a lit candle, and a small vase with green leaves and purple flowers in a cozy setting.
A waiter in an apron holds a large piece of dried fish, presenting it to diners at a restaurant.
A gourmet dish featuring a small bread bun topped with cured meat, garnished with herbs, alongside a glass of red wine on a wooden table. In the background, there is a shelf containing books and a decorative vase with a small plant.
A table setting featuring a fork, a rolled-up napkin with fish designs, and a glass of water on a wooden table.
A beautifully arranged gourmet dish featuring a slice of meat, a round garnish, and edible flowers on a rustic plate. A glass of red wine and a straw nest with an onion are also present, set against a cozy, warm background.
A beautifully presented dish with a dark plate featuring a piece of food garnished with pine nuts, served with a glass of wine and a candle, accompanied by a small vase of greenery, all set against a backdrop of bookshelves.
A dish featuring sea urchin served in a decorative bowl, showcasing its vibrant yellow interior alongside its spiky outer shell, on a wooden table.
A beautifully arranged dish with a small bowl containing seafood garnished with herbs, resting on a bed of seaweed. A glass of cocktail and a glass of water on a wooden table with a candle in the background.
A beautifully plated dish featuring finely shredded fish or seafood, served in a black bowl on a wooden table. Accompanying the dish are a glass of clear beverage and a glass of water, along with a small vase containing green herbs and a lit candle in the background, showcasing a cozy dining atmosphere.
A beautifully arranged table setting featuring a bowl of green seafood with caviar, a decorative wooden piece, a flower in a small vase, and a unique dessert on a colorful plate.
A chef preparing a dish by grinding ingredients in a stone mortar, with a bowl of crab claws displayed on the side.
Chefs preparing dishes in a restaurant kitchen, wearing black uniforms and aprons, focused on their tasks.
Three chefs in black uniforms working in a restaurant kitchen, preparing various dishes on a countertop.
A wooden platter filled with various seafood items, including fish, shellfish, and crustaceans, displayed against a blue wall.

Overall, an amazing meal! I have a reservation at the partner restaurant – Roks – tomorrow and am excited for more delicious bites! A fantastic day in the Faroes.

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